New Zealand's adventure sport capital has a beautiful lakeside location, surrounded by mountains. Behind it, Ben Lomond makes for a decent hike. It was autumn as I ascended the "one-mile creek" path, but well above the tree-line, it became winter, with the path coated with a thin layer of snow, and a few icy patches. Fog meant there was no view from the top. I continued round the "Moonlight Track" which led round the back of the mountains to Arthur's Point, just up the road from Queenstown. I finished the day with a tasty "Big Al" (double burger with bacon, egg, cheese, beetroot etc. etc.) from Fergburger, an establishment whose reputation preceded it (it was being discussed in backpacker circles even before I reached New Zealand...)