Walk diary

I started the route proper on 6th July 2013 at 11am. I'm adding to this diary as the walk progresses.

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19th May 2016

I reached Crianlarich yesterday evening, and, slightly damp, have been relaxing at the youth hostel.

After a week of mainly sunshine, Tuesday rained from 13:30 until 04:00 the next morning - without interruption, I think, although I slept through some of it. I camped quite high, at the col between Ben Lui and Ben Oss, immersed in the fog. Wednesday was somewhat better, but still misty above 600m, but the ground was sodden by then - so my feet were too.

Still, a successful 9 days hike. Another 150km done, a few bonus summits climbed, some lovely views had, and my knees held up (though not without a few minor complaints).

2016/05/19 09:31 · David Edgar · 0 Comments

7th May 2018

I arrived back in Crianlarich on Saturday for part 3, and started with a warm-up day doing Ben More and Stob Binnein. Rather misty on the tops, but most of the snow had gone. Then after getting back to town, I continued just a little along the watershed in the evening, making it up above the trees. Five Munros yesterday (one a bonus one, not quite on the watershed) made for a tiring but short (in distance) day. Largely kind weather, in and out of the cloud on the summits. Currently stopped for a break above the north end of Loch Lomond. A circuitous route should line me up for Ben Lomond tomorrow, all being well.

2018/05/07 12:27 · David Edgar · 1 Comment

8th May 2018

A damp grey day has finally cleared up… and I'm over Ben Lomond, and within reach of the Highland Boundary Fault. (I can see the islands marking its route across Loch Lomond from where I'm sitting.)

2018/05/08 18:52 · David Edgar · 0 Comments

9th May 2018

It's drizzled all day, and felt pretty cold with the wind too. Currently taking shelter in Balfron's pub-turned-Indian-restaurant. The forecast is a little better for the next few days, fortunately. Into the hills again tomorrow (initially the Fintry Hills, east of the Campsies proper).

2018/05/09 19:03 · David Edgar · 0 Comments

11th May 2018

Today has brought a few forests to navigate my way through, fire breaks or not… I'm now in the Campsies. The weather is dull, but was dry until a few minutes ago… Very wet underfoot (and indeed in-boot) for the past few days, although the sunny afternoon yesterday gave great views out as far as the Forth bridges.

2018/05/11 16:09 · David Edgar · 0 Comments

12th May 2018

Finally the warm spring sunshine has arrived! A beautiful day along the ridge and then dropping down to cross the Forth and Clyde Canal, the Antonine Wall and the M80. Made it through Cumbernauld and ready to find somewhere to camp as soon as I'm far enough out of town.

2018/05/12 20:05 · David Edgar · 0 Comments

Diary archive

June 2018

Summary: Ullapool to the Great Glen

I arrived at the Great Glen on the 8th August. This is a bit of a milestone. While I haven't yet quite done quarter of the distance, I reckon I've exerted at least quarter of the total amount of effort. I've done 3/5 of the Munros, and over half the Corbetts, so from here there should be a bit less climbing. I've gone through the Rough Bounds and had some of the harsh weather of the North-West Highlands. This afternoon I'll set out on the last really long stage without resupply - I hope I'll reach Tyndrum in 10 days, but it could be 12 or more.

Setting out from Ullapool, I had some great weather, and enjoyed some fantastic hiking over Seana Bhraigh and the mountains immediately after. I arrived in Kinlochewe in fewer days than I expected. Sadly the good weather didn't last out, and I subsequently had two weeks where it rained at least a little every day. The ground was waterlogged and so I spent many days walking permanently wet boots and socks.

The going was tough - in places very tough, so I sometimes only managed 12km in a full day. Ridges full of ups and downs to negotiate and some awkward crags; tussocky grass, hard to step through and wet and slippery to descend; moss which sinks under every footstep; and occasional thick heather or bracken.

Nevertheless, these are some great mountains. The Fannichs were lovely, Kintail remote and desolate, the Rough Bounds memorably wild and rocky. They're not very popular - I saw a few hikers on the Fannichs, and some on the south Glen Shiel Ridge, but few elsewhere. Deer, grouse and frogs are the most common creatures around.

I grew ever more hungry. Kinlochewe and the Cluanie Inn made good stopping points, where I ate lots and lots to refuel. I managed to stay reasonably fit and healthy however - with the exception of one toe rubbing against another one, my feet are in good shape. My legs often ache in the mornings, but not excessively, and other complaints are similarly minor.

I feel like I'm putting off leaving today… although it really should be a rest day, it's not yet raining like the forecast said it would. Worrying about the weight of my bag when I finally come to leave. I've still a bunch of food to eat through first, after already eating a self-made fried breakfast and plenty of other stuff.

So - I'm steadily working my way through the high mountains. I have to say I'm looking forward to reaching the end of the area where phone reception is mostly non-existent, accommodation rare and shops even less common. The wilderness is awesome, but the logistics prove quite a struggle. But there are some interesting locations to look forward to over the next couple of weeks first, Stob Poite Coire Ardair, Ben Alder and the Black Mount among the high summits.

Discussion

Nadine, 2013/08/11 11:25

What I really miss is a map tracing your whole route, from the beginning. Take care of yourself.

Nadine

Sylv, 2013/08/11 11:32

I think this map David put online is pretty good: http://www.loughrigg.org/watershed/map/ Certainly helps me know whereabouts he is ;-) my knowledge of the British mountains is rather limited!

David Edgar, 2013/08/12 17:15

Thanks, Sylvia! Yes, I'm updating my position on it as and when I get phone reception… It's linked on the top bar above.

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